5/5/2009
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Repairing 1998-2003 Honda V6 Oil Leaks
Oil leaks have been reported on some 1998-2003 Honda V6 engines coming from the front, middle, or rear of the engine. A likely cause of this problme is the cast aluminum engine block may be porous in certain spots.
This bulletin may help installers to repair this problem. Depending on the location of the leak, you may seal it with JB Weld or 3-Bond-coated sealing bolts.
Tools:
VTEC System Test Tool, P/N 07AAJ-PNAA101, H/C 7980717
Adapter Hose, P/N AT77
For some problems, the VTEC System Test Tool can be used to pressure-check the engine block for oil leaks. A similar tool was first used in 1992 to check the rocker arms on VTEC engines. If your shop does not have a VTEC System Test Tool, you may order it from a Honda parts center. The tool consists of a gauge with regulator, a hose, and a coupler. (See Figure 1)
Required Materials:
JB Weld: P/N 82654 (commercially available)
Powdered Leak Detector: P/N 201 65 (Call Kent Automotive at 866-837-9908)
Parts:
Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt (except 2003 Accord V6): P/N 14551 -P8A-999, H/C 6665731
Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt (2003 Accord V6 only): P/N 14551-RCA-A01, H/C 7244379
Engine Side Mount Bracket Bolt: P/N 95801 -10085-99, H/C 6646574
Transmission Mounting Bolt (2 required): P/N 95701-1 2070-99, H/C 6646566
Repair Procedure:
Most engine oil leaks can be seen when you disassemble the suspected area. But if you want to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, use a powdered leak detector (best for suspected bolt hole leaks) or do a pressure-test with the VTEC System Test Tool (best for suspected block porosity).
Leak Testing With a Powdered Leak Detector (Best for suspected bolt hole leaks):
1) Clean off residual oil and grease from the engine with engine degreaser.
2) Disassemble the engine enough to expose the area of the leak.
3) Spray powdered leak detector on the area.
4) Reassemble the engine, start it, and run it for about 5 minutes.
5) Shut off the engine, and inspect the leak area.
Once you find the leak, go to Confirming section below, and use the chart to determine whether
to follow Repair Procedure A or Repair Procedure B.
Leak Testing With the VTEC System Test Tool (Best for suspected block porosity)
1) Disconnect the breather hose connecting the front head cover to the air inlet tube. (See Figure 2)
2) Remove the oil pressure switch from the oil pump.
3) Screw the adapter of the VTEC tool into the oil pressure switch hole.
4) Connect the VTEC tool to shop air regulated to no more than 40 psi.
5) Brush soapy water on the suspected porous area (best for vertical surfaces) or fill the area with soapy
water (best for a suspected leak in the engine valley).
If the area bubbles, you've found the leak. Use the chart below to determine whether to follow Repair Procedure
A or Repair Procedure B.
NOTE: To fill an engine valley section with soapy water, plug the drain hole in the valley with a piece
of tubing (P/N 36285-P8A-AOO, H/C 5181730) around a 6 x 15 mm bolt. (See Figure 3)
6) After you pressure-test the block and make the needed repairs, pull fuse N0.11 (15A) from the driver's under-dash fuselrelay box (to disable the ignition system), then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds; this ensures the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7) If you can't find the leak with this method, use the powdered leak detector.
Repair Procedure A
1) Remove and discard the original bolt(s).
2) Install the appropriate coated bolt(s) (see PARTS listed above), and torque them as indicated:
Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt: 33 ft.lbs. (44 Nm)
Engine Side Mount Bracket Bolt: 33 ft.lbs. (44 Nm)
Transmission Mountit7g Bolts: 54 ft.lbs. (73 Nm)
3) Reassemble the engine, start it, and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.
Repair Procedure B
1) Thoroughly clean the area to be patched. This is vital for good bonding of the adhesive.
2) Follow the manufacturer's directions for preparing the JB Weld 82654 adhesive.
3) Spread a generous amount of adhesive on the leak area and 1 to 2 inches surrounding it.
4) Reassemble the engine, making sure not to disturb the adhesive.
5) Let the adhesive set for at least 24 hours before you start the engine. This is vital because engine oil pressure will try to push through the repair.
6) If you pressure-tested the block, pull fuse No.11 from the under-dash fuse/relay box to disable the ignition system. Then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds; this ensures that the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7) Start the engine, and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.
Confirming the Leak
The engine may leak at any of six known areas. Confirm the leak with this chart, then repair it using either Repair Procedure A or B listed above. (See Chart 1)
Some or all of this information was provided by the Automotive
Parts Remanufacturers Association (APRA). For more information on
technical bulletins available through APRA call 703-968-2772 or visit www.AutoBulletins.com.