Many engine shops are opting to control their projects and builds from point A to point B, leaving the customer with a ready-to-run package. In order to do this, shops have to add capabilities such as installation work, fabrication work, transmission work, and even suspension and chassis work, in some cases.
I use an 1/8-inch allen wrench to insert and extract the pilot while doing valve jobs on cylinder heads. I would frequently misplace this little tool between seats, so I started using a rubber band to keep it attached to the palm of my hand.
ROD TO CAM CLEARANCE GAUGE Using a plastic banding strap as a feeler gauge works great to check for clearance. The straps are generally .035˝-.045˝ thick, so you might want to double them up to check for the minimal .050˝-.060˝ clearance recommended. These work great as they easily bend to any curvature you need. If
I call this my “Easy Riser” for Harley cylinders. It is a 2.5L GM block that I have bored to two different sizes to accommodate different cylinder bottom sizes. I use bolts installed into head bolt locations to prevent rotation of the cylinders. I only hone cylinders on this, boring is still done on parallels. This is way easier than horizontal honing on a Sunnen rod hone with a cylinder hone adapter.